Solomon Islands Expedition – Morovo Lagoon
4th – 12th June 2012
JBK Participants: Petra Booij, Liz Ferguson, Rachel Seath, Cath Naismith, Peter Jones, Terry Davies, Julie Lamont, Di Brack, Sue Feary. JBK Leader : Tracy Gibson
Day One (4th June)
We started the trek to Sydney early and arrived at 4:30am to check in our bags and paddles.
With the group assembled and excited about the adventure ahead we settled into our day of travel. Four modes of Transport later (Three Aircraft and a Boat transfer) we were welcomed with open arms (and a complimentary cocktail) by Grant Kelly from the Uepi Island Dive Resort, which would be our home for the next two days to prepare for the paddling trip.
The Magic Uepi Island Resort
The following day was spent getting orientated with our equipment and packing dry bags as well as doing the most amazing snorkeling you could imagine. Uepi Island lies right on the outer Toba (Outer Coral Reef) which fringes and shelters the Morovo Lagoon. Hundreds of tropical fish varieties and stunning coral combined with 28degree water tempts had us snorkeling the edge of our Island paradise for literally hours. The resorts dinning and bar area look directly over the water so it was easy to settle into a few SolBrew beers at the end of the day and enjoy the wonderfully fresh banquet of food cooked by the local islanders.
Group on the Water - Photo Tracy Gibson
The trip got underway the next morning in beaming sunshine and hot conditions. Water clarity is incredible in the Lagoon and we were paddling over coral bombies and past lushly forested islands all the way cruising along the Toba to our lunch break.
A tropical storm blew in as we were getting ready to leave so we waited for the winds to ease a little before heading onto our proposed camp site on Sambolu Island. The rain and storm cell intensified with lightning and thunder becoming more regular as we neared our destination. Our Solomon Islander crew had set the camp already for the night but had not yet put our tents up giving us the option to stay and ride out the nights storm on the Island or be boated back to the Uepi Island Resort to get dry. While some were up for the adventure we elected as a group to take advantage of the spare rooms available at the resort as all flights in or out had been cancelled that afternoon.
Morovo Village By Sea Kayak - Photo Tracy Gibson
The next morning, after an extra hardy cooked breakfast at Uepi, we were back on the boats and motoring back to our Kayaks and gear. The Uepi crew were preparing to move the camp to our next overnight stop on Njapchanjomo Island. The day started out wet and overcast but this actually made for comfortable paddling conditions out of the usual tropical heat. With regular stops for drinks and snacks we made the most of our tailwinds surfing the kayaks along. Our camp was set up as we pulled onto the beach. A small village was built at one end of the island and our camp set at the other which offered us stunning views of the sunset that evening. Some went exploring the Island on foot or Snorkelling as Terry and Aeram, our Solomon’s Guide, headed out fishing outside the Reef where it drops off the coral shelf. The boys came back with a huge Spanish Mackerel and another smaller fish. The crew cooked a wonderful BBQ that night that included Sausages, Marinated Chicken and fried rice and now some Spanish Mackerel!. Most of the fish Terry and Aeram then offered to the Solomon family living on the Island which they excitedly accepted.
Morovo Lagoon Kids - Photo Terry Davies
This Solomon Island Expedition was always going to be as much about the Culture as it is about the Paddling and Snorkelling. We were excited then the next day as we left camp for a Local Lodge run by the Village church community at Chubakopi. We had sunny and glassy conditions all morning as we paddled from the outer reef area to the main Island of Vangunu. This Island and New Georgia Island are where most of the Villages are located and the majority of the population lives in the Morovo Lagoon.
Morovo Lagoons - Matikuri Lodge - Terry Davies
Along the way we had a stop at the village of Cheke to see the eel fish people there treat as pets in the river and shopped at a small market set up with carvings, bags and baskets created by the local people. Here we started to see the result of what unregulated logging is doing in the area and it was a real eye opener for the potential it has to destroy this fragile environment. We moved onto lunch at the village of Karjoro where we were greeted by men in a traditional Solomon War Canoe.
Solomon Islands - War Canoe in full dress - Photo Tracy Gibson
All dressed up and with one with spear and shield in hand, these men used to hunt the heads of white people or attack (or defend) from incursions from other villages. It was a mesmerising display and everyone had come out of their houses to watch and wave as we arrived. A special lunch was layed out for us of many traditional island delicased, my favourite was the fried sweet bananas and fresh coconut drunk and eaten straight from the source. Our overnight stay at Chubikopi village was short but gave us an interesting perspective on how a bigger village operates. We toured the new school and village before heading off again to snorkel at the site of a crashed P38 Bomber from the War on our way to the naturally rustic and picturesque Matikuri Eco Lodge.
A very laid back and relaxed setting we got very comfortable with Island life here again as it was to be our home for the final three nights of the trip. With a fridge powered by generators to keep the SolBrew Beer and Coke cool Benjamin and his wife Jillian made us feel part of the family here and were fantastic hosts not to mention fabulous cooks!!. They even organized the local pipe band “Kavakoasa” to come to the island one evening for a night of Solomon music and dancing.
Kavakoasa Pipe Band at Matikuri Eco Lodge
The following day saw sunny and glassy conditions again for our crossing to Bapata Passage. We followed narrow Mangrove Passages to a small reef fringed lagoon of beautiful Corals and fish life for snorkelling with the stunning backdrop of steep Limestone cliffs. This also allowed us to pop outside the lagoon to play in the open ocean swell as another afternoon rain storm hit. Gone as quickly as it came we turned around for the paddle back and a game of Kayak Frisbee on the way.
Our final days paddle was a shorter one which took us 7klm to Kuacha Is. To snorkel all day on the Reef. This particular place has a fantastic Ship wreck to see with coral and fish now making it their home. Your eyes widen and you hold your breath as you snorkel off the beach across the shallows to be greeted by this awesome structure standing silently in its watery home.
Japanese Fishing Trawler - Perched on the reef in 4000feet of water - Photo Terry Davies
As we paddled back I took time to reflect on the huge variety of things we had seen in on 9 short days. This Solomon Islands trip is one of true adventure. Still remote and non-commercialised the stillness of the Lagoon is only broken by the sounds of children singing in Dug Out Canoes or the wind as a rain storm blows briefly in. A subsistence living people, the cultural and natural experience of this place makes our Solomon Islands trip Adventure one to remember for a lifetime.
Morovo Sunset
