JBK Solomon Island’s
Blog Write Up
By Tracy Gibson
Photos by Terry Davies,
Karen Baker and Tracy Gibson
The JBK Solomon Islands adventure is always one of pure
discovery. From the moment we meet at the airport we are embarking on an
experience that is so unique and so special that you never want it to end.
The group excitement
was high as we touched down at the small remote airport of Seghe on New Georgia
Island in the Western Province of the Solomon Islands.
Having already traveled via several modes of transport that day we boarded a boat to take us across to the
Uepi Island Resort to kick back and relax under the Palm trees with a
well-earned cold drink. Uepi Island is part of a chain of coral islands (Toba)
that lies right on the edge of the Morovo Lagoon which is the largest saltwater
lagoon in the world. Surrounded by stunning coral and deep water the fish life
for diving and snorkeling truly blows your mind and its protected waters are
the perfect playground for kayakers.
Seghe Airport Morovo Lagoon - Solomon Islands
After a few days relaxing to get into the groove of island
life, we packed up the kayaks and headed out for our 6 Day paddling adventure.
Our first day saw heavy rains give us a real taste of the intensity of the
tropics, but in overcast conditions protecting us from the island heat we made
good progress as we used the coral islands as protection, weaving in and out we
reached our camp site on Sambulo Island at around 1pm. The skies cleared as we
landed after covering our 15klms easily. After a great lunch we split up with
some people going fishing, some reading in the shade and snoozing and some
diving in for more snorkeling We felt really spoilt as the staff from Uepi
looked after us setting up camp and cooking wonderful meals. They even had our
drinks cooling in an esky. That night was hot in the tents but we were dry
under our huge tarp as we heard more heavy rain during the night.
Sunny skies greeted us the next day and after breakfast and
another quick snorkel we took off under light winds. Paddling more open
crossings today we again covered our 15klm at a leisurely pace stopping often
to take photos and absorb the wonderful vista’s all around. Pictures don’t do justice to the incredible
unspoilt beauty of this place. As we cruised along the Toba it was like
paddling back in time.
The JBK Paddlers Team Solomon Islands 2013
Our next campsite on
Njapanjomo Island got even more spectacular. Again all set up for our arrival
we positioned ourselves on a pristine white sand beach as the wind increased on
the water we had timed our paddle over to perfection missing the choppy
conditions. After lunch there was more snorkeling to do as we were right on
the edge of a deep drop with bight coloured coral walls and abundant fish life.
Terry took to the kayak and pulled in a beautiful Coral Trout for dinner. After
another fantastic meal over an open fire we kicked back to enjoy the night sky
and watch the distant lightning storm. We awoke to a magical sunrise and after
two days camping we were moving across the lagoon to stay
at Chubikobi village lodge on Vangunu Island. On the way we visited several
villages and talked with the local people. Local carvers had brought their
wares to display and a couple of us bought some beautiful wooden pieces to take
home.
Tracy , Terry and Aerem - The Three Amigos ( HUH )
A subsistence living people the villages exist with what they grow in their
gardens or catch from the sea and carvings in wood and stone are another source
of income for the local people. Visiting and staying in the villages is really
what sets this trip apart from your average holiday. Talking first hand to
people who have fought to save their communities and land from international
logging operations, how they work to educate their children and how they keep
their traditional history alive puts into perspective how special this place is
and how easily it could be destroyed. It was a common sight to see children and
families going to school or church in dugout canoes and people going from
village to village for trade or to visit neighbors.
Traditional Duout Canoe
These dugout canoes were
used hundreds of years ago and not much has changed in the way they are made
and what they are used for. We were a curious sight I’m sure in our bright
coloured plastic kayaks with rudders???
Blessed
with light following winds again all day we made it to Chubikobi in the mid
afternoon. Time to freshen up with a shower and have a relaxing evening on the
deck overlooking the water, listening to the children practicing their singing
in the church on the hillside. The next
morning we toured the village seeing the schools and church up close. The
teacher invited us in so we could talk with the children and they decided to
sing us a few songs. Who knew such strong voices could come out of such small
children as they nearly lifted the roof of the place with their enthusiasm. As
a large group we are granted privileges most people don’t get to experience in
the Solomon’s. By getting out away from the resorts our Solomon’s journey
becomes a very personal one. Today we only had a short 10klm to paddle through
the mangrove fringes of the island as a boast was to collect us and all our
gear and transfer us to the other side of the lagoon for the last three days.
Called Nono Lagoon this area is part of the Hele reef system. Our base for the
last three nights of the trip was Matikuri Island. A small eco lodge built
their by Ben and his wife Jillian, this islands sits on the edge of a more open
area of the lagoon. The sago palm huts and communal buildings provide a really
relaxed environment combined with the fact that it only accommodates really
small groups makes you feel very at home here.
Sea Kayaks on the deck at Matikuri overlooking the Morovo Lagoon
Great snorkelling is right on your doorstep as you drop in
off the deck into crystal clear waters. This place provided us with great
options to explore for our remaining paddling days. The weather was perfect for
a trip to Babata Passage with following SE trade winds and a swell pushing us
in the right direction. Bapata is an area surrounded by mangroves with a narrow
pass, half natural and half man made by the Australian Army during WWII, you
weave your way through with overhanging trees to an open small lagoon with tall
limestone cliffs and an area of reef protecting it from open sea. Here the sea
level is higher than the lagoon so the waves create small waterfalls across the
reef. We pulled up in an idyllic location overlooking the cliffs were the
locals were collecting a seaweed delicacy that tasted like salty popcorn. The snorkeling was again overwhelming with turtles, sharks and different species
of clown fish. We arranged for a boat pick up so we didn't have to paddle the
extra 10km on the open return journey.
Village Visit at Chubikobi
Our last day we
adjusted our plans as the swell and wind were still strong to take in the
islands surrounding Matikuri. Home for lunch, we snorkeled and played in the
kayaks all afternoon. As the sun set we rested on the deck over hanging the water
with a few Solbrew’s, the Solomon Islands only beer. We chatted and joked about
all the experiences we had shared during the week (Including picking up a
Coconut, drawing a face on it, calling it Wilson and making it a shared 12th
member of our group) and after dinner we danced the night away to the sounds of
a traditional pipe band playing for us on the deck well into the evening.
It was hard to single out something as a favourite on this
trip. We had seen so much and been touched by so many. On the flight home I sat
quietly and reflected on what an incredibly diverse and beautiful place the Morovo and Nono lagoon is. This is
a once in a lifetime experience and you need to see it now in all its unspoilt
and unchanged natural wonder.
Let Jervis Bay Kayak Company take you on your Solomon
Islands adventure of discovery.
Be sure not to miss your place in 2014!!!!
